No Place Like Drass.
By Aby Aneja — Film Director & Adventure Enthusiast
Introduction
I believe beauty has standards- and Drass effortlessly tops them. Having explored most of India and being someone not easily impressed, I can say with confidence: Drass is one of the most extraordinary places I've ever seen. If it captivated me, it's bound to move you.
Welcome to Drasstown, also known as Drass, one of the coldest inhabited places on Earth and one of Ladakh’s best-kept secrets. Nestled at an altitude of 3,300 meters (10,800 ft), this stunning town lies between Kargil and Zoji La Pass, offering a rare blend of historic significance, raw Himalayan beauty, and untapped adventure potential. While Leh and Nubra have seen a tourism boom, Drass remains untouched, raw, and authentic. This is where you come to disconnect from crowds and reconnect with the Earth.
No traffic. No noise. Just mountains, memories, and meaning.
Drass holds a sacred place in Indian military history. It was the epicenter of the 1999 Kargil War with Pakistan, where the Indian Army displayed unmatched courage against infiltrating forces. Landmarks like Tiger Hill (5,307 meters) and Tololing Peak (4,700 meters) became household names, symbolizing the spirit of resistance and sacrifice.Today, Drasstown stands not just as a scenic valley, but as a living tribute to valor, home to the Kargil War Memorial, where every Indian heart beats a little prouder.
The Surreal Landscape & Beauty
When I travel, music often transports me to dreamlike realms. But Drass is that realm-it looks like the music you listen to when imagining a place beyond reality.
Drass isn’t like Kashmir, nor like Leh – it’s a wide, open valley with massive, sweeping views, unlike the more closed, bowl-like terrain of other mountain towns. The horizons here stretch farther, the skies feel closer, and the sense of space is truly liberating. Living here, I truly understood what seasonal change feels like. From the fiery colors of autumn to snow-covered winters and the blossom-laced awakening of spring and summer-Drass reveals the full spectrum of nature's rhythm. Cities don't offer this intimacy with time.
In summer, Drass transforms into a valley of vibrant green, dotted with wildflowers, flowing streams, and meadows that roll endlessly. The Dras River, cold and clear, winds its way gracefully through the valley, giving life to the land and rhythm to your journey. The town is a visual delight – think colorful Mediterranean-style houses with red, blue, and mustard rooftops, nestled in the lap of rugged peaks. The sky here is the bluest you'll ever see, blending into grassy mountains, paddy fields, and Mediterranean-style homes with vibrant red and blue rooftops. It's as if God hand-painted this place.
The Geography of Contrast
The journey to Drass offers one of the most dramatic landscape transitions you'll ever witness. As you travel from Srinagar toward Leh via the national highway, the scenery shifts before your eyes. You begin amidst the dense alpine forests and glacial rivers of Sonamarg in Kashmir. But the moment you enter Ladakhi territory and reach Drass, the landscape transforms-lush greens give way to rugged, brown-hued mountains, still blanketed with wild grass and dotted with trees. This unique middle ground-where the lush ends and the barren begins-makes Drass the last stretch of greenery before the terrain turns stark and desolate past Kargil and into the cold desert of Leh. Drass is a meeting point of worlds-both geographically and spiritually.
Culture & Hospitality
The soul of Drass lies in its people. Predominantly speakers of Balti and Shina, the locals are warm-hearted, humble, and deeply connected to their roots. Here, hospitality is not a gesture-it's a way of life. Tourists often find themselves surprised by the spontaneous kindness of strangers. It's not uncommon to be greeted with a smile and invited into a home for a cup of salted butter tea or warm kahwa. Whether you're a hiker passing through a remote village or a traveler asking for directions, the people of Drass treat guests like extended family. Life in Drass revolves around community. Stories are shared around wood-fired stoves, children play freely in the lanes, and elders speak of traditions that span generations. This authenticity, unmarred by mass tourism, is what makes a visit here so memorable. It's not just about what you see, but who you meet-and how they make you feel.
Dras is primarily inhabited by the Sheena (Shina) community, known for their deep-rooted hospitality, strong cultural values, and warm spirit. Travelers here are welcomed like family.
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Women travelers feel safe and respected
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Locals often invite you for tea or share folklore
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The town celebrates a unique cultural fusion – Islamic traditions, Balti influences, and ancient mountain lore
Safety for Tourists & the Army Bond
Drass lies close to the Line of Control (LoC), and the presence of the Indian Army is deeply integrated into local life. Many residents serve in the army, particularly the Ladakh Scouts regiment, or work as porters and support staff. There's a sense of pride, duty, and a powerful unspoken bond between the people and the soldiers who protect this land.
Drass is one of the safest destinations in the Himalayas, thanks to the strong and consistent presence of the Indian Army, which operates across the region due to its proximity to the Line of Control. The town is highly disciplined, respectful, and community-driven, creating a secure environment for all travelers—especially women. Whether you’re hiking in the hills, visiting war memorials, or exploring remote villages, the people of Drass are known for their warmth and hospitality. As a solo traveler or a woman adventurer, you’ll find not only safety, but also support, kindness, and a deep cultural respect from locals and soldiers alike.
In fact, many tourists often remark how safe they feel walking through Drass even at odd hours, with army checkpoints nearby, local residents always ready to help, and a general atmosphere of calm and protection.
The Kargil War 1999
In the summer of 1999, the sleepy town of Drass became the center of one of the most intense high-altitude conflicts in modern history—the Kargil War. What unfolded here was not just a territorial skirmish but a defining chapter in India's military legacy.
Pakistani intruders, primarily from the Northern Light Infantry, infiltrated and occupied key mountain positions in the Drass, Kargil, and Batalik sectors. From these dizzying heights—some over 16,000 feet above sea level—they had a strategic vantage point over National Highway 1D, India's vital lifeline to Ladakh.
Two of the most pivotal and fiercely contested peaks were Tiger Hill (16,608 ft) and Tololing (16,000 ft)—both located in the Drass sector. Capturing them wasn’t just critical; it was near-impossible. The Indian Army had to climb near-vertical, icy cliffs under enemy fire in freezing temperatures with limited oxygen. The terrain was treacherous, the odds unforgiving. Yet, Indian soldiers did the unthinkable. Through stealth, strategy, and unmatched courage, they reclaimed every inch of the occupied territory. Heroes like Captain Vikram Batra, Lt. Manoj Pandey, and countless unnamed jawans fought and fell on these slopes, etching their bravery into the very rocks of Drass. The war lasted over two months and cost hundreds of lives—but it also showcased India’s determination, unity, and military grit to the world. In many ways, Kargil was India’s mountain Stalingrad—relentless, patriotic, and soul-stirring.
Closing the Gap in War Tourism
Despite its historic significance, tourism in Drass has long been limited to a single stop—the Kargil War Memorial. While it pays solemn tribute to the fallen, it only scratches the surface of what this region holds.
Most visitors pass through, take a photo, read a plaque—and leave. They never experience the terrain. They don’t climb a ridge to look Tiger Hill in the eye, or walk a path that runs below Tololing’s daunting face. They don’t breathe the thin air or feel the exposure of the open valley under the cold sky. And in doing so, they miss the most vital truth of the 1999 war: That this was not just a military operation—it was an impossible battle fought at brutal altitudes, on bare rock, in freezing temperatures, against all odds.
Not being able to see the peaks from up close—Tiger Hill, Point 4875, Point 5140—leaves a void in the emotional and historical understanding of the war. Without that proximity, the magnitude of what the Indian Army achieved here remains abstract.
That’s what inspired me to create Being Alive. Born out of my time filming, exploring, and living in Drass, Being Alive is more than just an adventure community—it’s a tribute to resilience. It combines physical endurance with emotional reflection, turning trekking routes into storytelling journeys. Here, the landscapes speak. And as you move through them, you don't just see history—you feel it.
With Being Alive, these war-scarred slopes become immersive experiences. Trekking to key viewpoints, hearing true accounts of 1999, and walking through the very ground our soldiers defended gives you a profound sense of connection—to the land, to the past, and to your own strength. This is war tourism with a soul—where reverence walks beside adventure, and every step echoes with legacy. By guiding people to these very viewpoints, not as soldiers, but as learners, explorers, and respectful witnesses—we bring people closer to the truth. Closer to the landscape. Closer to the sacrifice. And ultimately, closer to themselves.
Connectivity & Access
Despite its offbeat charm, Drass is well connected by road via National Highway 1 from Srinagar (approx. 5 hours)and Kargil (just 1 hour). In summers, the roads are smooth, the skies are clear, and the air is filled with the scent of pine and poplar.
Due to its lower altitude than Leh, acclimatisation is easier, making it a more comfortable base for treks, explorations, and extended stays – ideal for first-timers or family trips.
Connectivity Guide
Access to Leh:
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By Air: Direct flights operate daily from Delhi, Mumbai, and Srinagar to Leh Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL).
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By Road: Manali-Leh Highway (June to Oct), Srinagar-Leh Highway via Zoji La Pass (May to Nov).
Access to Drass:
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From Leh: A 6–7 hour drive via Kargil on the Srinagar-Leh Highway.
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From Srinagar: A 5–6 hour drive via Sonamarg and Zoji La Pass (pass open May to November).
Comfort & Mobile Coverage:
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Roads are paved and safe in summer months.
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Airtel and Jio postpaid offer coverage in Leh and parts of Drass;
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Bike and taxi support available throughout the entire route.
Sightseeing Beyond the War
Drass is not just a place to pass through-it's a destination. Here's what you might miss if you don't linger:
- Goshan Valley - Like a computer wallpaper come to life, this valley is filled with meadows, plains, charming homes, and a majestic view of Tiger Hill.
- Matayan - Known for its chocolate-colored rocks.
- Mushkow Valley - Famous for its wild tulip blooms in spring.
- Kutial - Tunnels of overhanging trees form a shaded road straight out of a fairytale.
- Watakool - Abandoned houses and a peaceful riverfront create a hauntingly beautiful scene.
- Beras, Thungus, Donchick, Bhimbhat - From narrow, organic village streets to small treks with panoramic views, these villages embody rustic charm. Bhimbhat also hosts the legendary Bhim Pathar and scenic canals.
Wildlife Encounters
Drass is home to the elusive Himalayan brown bear, whose presence inspires both fear and fascination. Red foxes are often seen darting about, and recently, a rare lynx was spotted in Labbar-reminding us that the wild here is still very much alive.
A Winter Wonderland
In winter, Drass transforms. With temperatures dropping to -30°C and snowfall piling up 3-4 feet, it becomes one of the coldest inhabited places on Earth. Yet life thrives. Skiing and snowboarding here remain raw and uncommercialized-perfect for freestyle riders who crave unmarked powder. While snow park plans are under development, for now, it's raw, wild, and ideal for thrill-seekers. Ice hockey is another cherished tradition. More than a sport, it's a community heartbeat. Matches during winter are festive, unifying locals and the army in celebration and competition. It has become an emotional and cultural touchstone. Teams like the Himalayan Hawks have represented Drass in tournaments, turning matches into community-wide celebrations. There are huge icicles and Frozen waterfalls in the area which are also being explored for ice climbing.
Adventure & Sports
Drass is a goldmine for adventurers seeking untouched terrain and authentic challenges. From hiking gentle ridges to climbing formidable peaks, it offers a playground for all levels of outdoor enthusiasts. Trekking: Day hikes like Manman Top Trek and Prandas Ridge Trek offer moderate climbs with epic sunset views over Tiger Hill and Drass town. Mountain Climbing: Peaks from 4,000 to 6,000 meters offer immense potential for technical climbs. Local administration is building infrastructure including homestays, camps, rescue support, and guides. Situated at 10,800 feet, Drass is surprisingly breathable for a high-altitude region, thanks to its abundance of trees and vegetation.
Tiger Hill Viewpoint Trek
This moderate trek takes you to a vantage point facing the legendary Tiger Hill (16,608 ft). The trail winds through grazing pastures and ridgelines, eventually revealing a commanding view of the mountain where one of the fiercest Kargil War battles was fought. It’s not about climbing Tiger Hill—it’s about standing at a point where you can truly grasp its scale and historical weight. The trek is emotionally powerful, especially for those who’ve followed the war or served in uniform.
Tesar Spang Trek
A short yet impactful hike, the Tololing Ridge Trek offers a direct line of sight to Point 5140, another critical battlefield. The route passes through the village of Bhimbhat, where a short trail from the LC Road leads you to a natural balcony with panoramic views. On the way, you’ll encounter small shrines and army memorials that add depth to the journey.
Both treks are suitable for amateur trekkers with moderate fitness and can be completed in a day.
The Call to Be Alive
There’s something transformational about standing face-to-face with the peaks where history was written in blood, sweat, and unshakable courage during the Kargil war of 1999. Trekking even a modest mountain in Drass—just to see Tiger Hill or Tololing—isn’t just an adventure, it’s an awakening. Witnessing where heroes once fought, changes something inside you.
At over 10,000 feet above sea level, with thin air in your lungs and the silence of the mountains around you, you begin to understand what it meant for our soldiers to fight at these impossible altitudes. That feeling—of reverence, of clarity, of patriotism—remains with you long after the trek ends.
This is the essence of Being Alive, the adventure community I founded that goes beyond sightseeing. It’s not just about movement—it’s about meaning. We curate experiences that challenge your limits, deepen your awareness, and leave you changed. Even a simple trek to a war peak stirs patriotism and personal triumph.
Walk the Trail of Heroes
One of the most personal and powerful offerings of Being Alive is a guided war tourism circuit, led by me—both as an adventure enthusiast and a filmmaker moved by this land and its stories.
You’ll trek with me to viewpoints facing iconic war zones:
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Tiger Hill – seen from a carefully chosen ridge
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Tololing and Point 5140 – accessed through Bhimbhat and the LC Road
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Batra Top (Point 4875) – a hike toward the foot of the legendary peak
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Mushkow Valley – where wild tulips now bloom over what were once front lines
These aren’t extreme technical climbs—they're emotional, meditative walks that place you within breathing distance of where history unfolded. I lead you through carefully chosen routes where the echoes of the 1999 Kargil War still resonate. These are not intense military-style climbs. They are introspective, emotionally rich hikes designed for everyday travelers who wish to connect with the spirit of the land and those who defended it. I will personally share narratives, war-time visuals, and reflections as we move through each location—so you not only see the land, but feel its memory. This isn’t sightseeing. It’s remembering, honoring, and feeling alive in a place where life was tested and triumph won.
Why Drass, Why Now?
Because we often need something real to inspire us. For people living lives boxed in Cubicles in the cities, Trekking in Drass fills you with inspiration—the kind that doesn’t fade when the journey ends. It stays with you, a spark that fuels your ultimate quest of being your best self, long after you’ve descended. That’s why Being Alive was born here. Because in this land shaped by endurance and sacrifice, you remember what you're capable of. Being Alive is not just a travel experience—it’s a journey inward, powered by the vast beauty and historical gravity of one of India’s most underappreciated regions. Join us on these trails, and let the echoes of courage and the silence of snowcapped peaks awaken something within you.